Comments on: DIY Auto Detailing: How to Properly Hand Wash & Polish Your Car

By: claire divas

claire divas — Tue, 03 Mar 2020 06:08:16 +0000

In reply to William King. Thanks a lot for sharing your incredible ideas. It is an appreciated and pretty tip for all those music lovers. What a Fatal post for those who want to upgrade exist subwoofer with new one.

By: William King

William King — Mon, 16 Jul 2018 17:07:40 +0000

I have found the second bucket can be eliminated if a “grit guard” is in the bottom of the soap bucket. It traps the grit and foreign particles that fall from the mitt.

Also, I highly recommend using a high powered blower to dry the car before using a micro fiber towel. It pushes the water off the car and drives it out of the crevices preventing corrosio

By: george danker

george danker — Mon, 16 Jul 2018 01:51:12 +0000

… blot the car dry in as few blots as possible.

Blot?
Ordinary rubbing with microfiber cloth not recommended?

By: Warren

Warren — Sun, 15 Jul 2018 16:45:28 +0000

I agree. Do wheels and tires first then dump bucket add fresh car wash then do body.

By: Tony Wilm. DE

Tony Wilm. DE — Sun, 15 Jul 2018 15:02:24 +0000

I like to take the nozzle off the hose &rinse the car with the hose. The water sheets off if you have any wax on the car. It makes it easy to dry with a micro fiber towel.

By: Marvin I katz

Marvin I katz — Sun, 15 Jul 2018 14:57:44 +0000

I find the best way to avoid streaks while drying my
Black 58 Vette is to do all of the above but after misting
The car I dry it off using a leaf blower. No streaks from a microfiber day.

By: Jay

Jay — Sun, 15 Jul 2018 13:25:26 +0000

I believe that it’s a great idea to completely rinse the car of all the grime you can before you even touch the car with any washing implements. Additionally I use two wash basins, one for wheels and lower rocker area and the other for the rest upper parts of the car. I do not was in the sun, flash drys! I have my garage set up to wash. When washing, even in the garage, I keep the entire car wet so the water doesn’t have a chance to dry even a little, that will leave a hard water ring. Follow the car lines when you wash, no swirling and keep rinsing the micro fiber mitt. Dry the car completely, even with hard water a complete dry will stop the mineral deposits. Finally return to the car often to dry the drips, they are a nuisance. You could use a air compressor blow gun to help expel the water from the crevasses. My last tip, if you drive away after drying your car bring a towel with you, then stop after you drive a short distance and dab the water from the crevasses. Careful with this extra step, dirt could stick to it like glue….bring a detailer spray too.

By: John

John — Sun, 15 Jul 2018 13:11:59 +0000

In reply to Chelsie. I don’t where you live but I live in the Sierra foothills and the nearest carwash is 40 miles one way. I owned an auto body repair business for many years, I wash the wheels with seperate cloth to keep any contamination from getting on the finish. I start with a good rinse, the I start with the top 1/3 all the way around, then the next 1/3 same way and the bottom last because more dirt and abrasives are usually lower, rinse the mit each time before putting it into the bucket for more soap, keeping the abrasives out of the wash bucket. The best polisher to use is a Flex, they are the pro choice because of their gear driven orbit.

By: Chelsie

Chelsie — Thu, 14 Jun 2018 20:01:29 +0000

In reply to Hal Smith. Just go to a local car wash. There are several in all areas that I know of that are just an open area with a hose for you to handwash your vehicle. Bring your personal polisher etc with you.

By: Frederick W Willis

Frederick W Willis — Mon, 19 Mar 2018 18:43:04 +0000

Your steps above are very confusing. You say ” 3. Start with the Wheels

Starting with the wheels guarantees that wheel grime does not fly up and ruin the newly-washed ( when was the car washed if we’re starting with the wheels? ) body. Make sure that you know what finish your rims have before using product on them. Chrome, aluminum, and standard clear-coating all require different chemicals with different levels of abrasion.