There’s no doubt that our Nissan 350Z re-build was a labor of love. But all the time and attention to detail is well worth it since we’re putting it to the test in Revving Up Episode 7!

See how the choices made by Galuska and Goodson come to fruition as we take the newly rebuilt coupe around the racetrack at Autobahn Country Club in Joliet, Ill.

FIRST THINGS FIRST

Welcome to the exciting conclusion of Revving Up! We’ve spent countless hours in our garage located in the Windy City. What have we been doing here, you ask? Building a 2003 Nissan 350Z into a combo daily driver/weekend track car and doing it on a $25,000 budget.

If you’ve been following along, you know that we are yearning to take this beauty out to the track. But before our team can adequately enjoy the fruits of our labor, there’s one more detail we want to include.

Vinyl wraps! We’re going to dress our car with partial vinyl wraps to show off the 303 and STA-BIL brand emblems. After all, it’s who we are.

Think of it as the cherry on top of our project to send it over the top. Following the installation, we’ll be whipping around the track to test out the car’s performance. It’s enough to make even the most stoic of personalities jump for joy.

So do your best to contain your excitement and keep both feet on the ground. We are moments away from enjoying all of the time we spent in the garage, making this car into an absolute beast.

THAT’S A WRAP. A VINYL WRAP.

Before we can get started with the custom vinyl art we ordered from Rolff Sign Company, it’s necessary to prep the surfaces properly. We’re spraying a simple IPA Solution onto a microfiber towel. Then, we’re going to wipe down the surface areas where the vinyl wraps will be applied.

After the exterior surfaces were clean, we used the following tools to apply the partial vinyl wraps the right way.

• Rubber squeegee with a felt side
• Tape measure
• Masking tape
• Razorblade (to cut around the edges)
• Heat gun

After placing the STA-BIL and 303 emblems ever so carefully, we went over them with a heat gun so they bond correctly to the surface of the car. It’s critically important to keep the setting on low and keep moving the gun. Otherwise, you run the risk of overheating the vinyl which can make it tear easily.

“This process takes around an hour per side but can take longer depending on how much vinyl you are laying,” says 303 Brand Manager DJ Goodson. “It’s really important to take your time on these because there’s nothing worse than putting in all this work on a custom build, then having it look strange because you rushed the vinyl.”

As you can see from the photo above, we are more than happy with how it turned out. So we are finally ready to take it for a spin out on the track!

WHEN THE HARD WORK PAYS OFF

After putting all the hours into the 350Z, finding a proper place to let this horse gallop was imperative. Using a little elbow grease, our devoted content and brand teams made it happen by securing our place at the Autobahn Country Club in Joliet, Ill.

The Autobahn Country Club has several remarkable members, including the father and son racing duo Bobby and Graham Rahal. We almost felt a similar familial connection between STA-BIL and 303. In fact, Bobby Rahal and STA-BIL both came into existence in the 1950s, while Graham Rahal and 303 arrived in the 1980s.

Now that you have a little background on the track to accompany six full episodes worth of knowledge about our 350Z, enjoy some action shots with a few quotes from STA-BIL Brand Manager and honorary driver Bob Galuska.

When you just get done changing a lot of parts, be sure to take it slow. Allow the car and yourself to feel out all the new components to see how the car reacts now compared to how it felt before you started modifying it.”

The biggest difference with how the car drives is the handling, for sure. Between the chassis bracing, coilovers, suspension, and the upgraded sway bars, the car feels much more planted when sweeping through the corners.”

The first time you drive after a build, listen for any noises and pay attention to any weird feelings you might be noticing. No matter how many times you double-check your work, you’re bound to potentially miss something tiny that you have to go back and take a look at.”

The plan for the car this summer is to have as much fun with it as possible. We’ll take it to events we plan on going to, do some track days, and enjoy the car the way it was meant to.”

In case it is not glaringly obvious, we are passionate about making car builds fun, unique, and budget-friendly. We sincerely hope this project inspires you to take one on yourself. If you do, trust STA-BIL and 303 to keep your ride in top shape because we only provide the best for people who are passionate about cars.

For more on this car build or the latest STA-BIL® and 303® news, make sure to follow both on Instagram (@303CarCare & @stabilbrand) and Facebook. You can also subscribe to their respective YouTube channels.

The post REVVING UP™ – ON THE TRACK appeared first on Gold Eagle.

If this video series had a designated flagman, he or she would be waving the checkered flag as our Nissan 350Z re-build enters its final lap in Revving Up Episode 6.

Check out Galuska and Goodson as they put on a rear spoiler, install a new radio, introduce an oil cooler, and give the car a thorough detail to keep it looking shiny and new.

THE CHECKERED FLAG LAP

It’s our sixth and final week in the garage as we put the finishing touches on our red 2003 Nissan 350Z.

If you are new around these parts, our team set out to build a project car on a budget, and we are so close to enjoying the fruits of our labor. It’s only a matter of pushing this combo daily driver and weekend track car across the proverbial finish line.

The journey has been filled with unexpected bumps, long days of filming, but most of all, success! It has been more than satisfying to work on the Z piece by piece, week after week, with you by our side.

You can learn how we got started on this idea by returning to the first episode of the series. But if you want to save a little time, here’s a quick breakdown of what we accomplished to this point:

• Prepped the car to set up a smooth build.
• Modified the engine with a new cold air intake, larger throttle body, and plenum spacer.
• Replaced the suspension with new coilovers, traction bars, camber arms, and front adjustable control arms.
• Installed new brakes and slotted rotors, sway bars, chassis bracing, and exhaust.
• Made significant cosmetic changes with a new front splitter, side splitter, and hood vents.

It’s our last chance to modify this coupe before we put our work to the test on the race track. Come along for the ride as we detail how to install new headlights, an oil cooler, replace a stereo head unit, introduce a rear spoiler, and conduct a thorough cleaning so onlookers can’t help but “ooh and aah” at the sight of the newly built General Z (working title as a nickname).

LET THERE BE LIGHT!

The first item on our to-do list is swapping out the old headlights for some new ones. If you look at the photograph below, you will notice a significant difference between the two.

The original headlights posed a problem that is best explained by 303 Brand Manager DJ Goodson:

We mentioned that we’d have to replace the headlights. That’s because there was too much oxidation on the outside of the old ones. The new ones are the same exact model as the old ones; these are just fresh out of the box and are super clear. We threw them in real quick before we re-attached the front bumper.”

You might have noticed that STA-BIL Brand Manager Bob Galuska (pictured above) is wearing gloves when handling the headlights. There’s a very important reason for that.

Natural oils from your skin can act as a heat conductor on the surface of an HID bulb. Once you turn it on, heat will naturally rush to the portion of the bulb that has been touched (oil residue). This results in improper distribution of heat, and the bulb will most likely fail.

To put it plainly, use gloves if you want to play it safe when working on your headlights. Otherwise, you run the risk of blowing them out and ain’t nobody got time for that.

“We re-used the HID ballast and bulbs from the old headlights and put them in the new ones because they were still functional,” Galuska explains. “It saved us money and only cost us the time it took to put them into the new headlights.”

After properly installing the new headlights, our pathway to completing this build began to illuminate. It’s a feeling that is difficult to put in words, but if you know, you know.

COOLER HEADS (AND OIL) PREVAIL

Headlights don’t have a monopoly in the world of hot temperatures. Engines can easily overheat for reasons such as having too little coolant or not having an oil cooler. We elected to drain the old oil and install a brand-new oil cooler so we can push the limits of General Z (again, we’re still debating the nickname) without running the risk of overheating.

“Installing an oil cooler is a safety measure so that we have less of a chance of our temps getting hot while doing some spirited driving,” Galuska says.

If you are considering the idea of using an oil cooler on your ride, all you need is an adjustable wrench. Take a look at the following photo to see where we introduced our new oil cooler on the 350Z before putting the front bumper back in place.

The oil cooler kit we are using is designed specifically for this model. For this reason, the hoses in the undercarriage are already cut to fit the dimensions and length needed. We needed to fasten them to our new oil cooler and keep them in place with zip ties for good measure.

Once we finished securing the hoses to the oil cooler, we were free to put the front bumper back in its proper location.

DOWN TO THE LAST DETAIL

We’ve spent so much time on this build, so it’s important to us that the car looks like it’s dressed to kill by the time we’re done. The only products we trust to get us there is 303’s lineup of cleaners and protectants, especially the recently released Graphene Nano Spray Coating pictured below.

“It’s a durable graphene oxide coating that lasts up to a year,” says Goodson. “It reduces water spots and has some crazy hydrophobic properties to shed water super fast off of paint, glass, wheels, or trim.”

BUT… Before we applied 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating to protect the exterior of the 350Z, we spruced up the car using the following easy three-step process.

• Step 1: Quick once-over using a waterless wash.
• Step 2: Decontaminate the paint using 303 Speed Detailer and 303 Clay Mitt.
• Step 3: Correct the paint by using 303 Polish to knock out scratches and swirl marks.

There is no way that we would ever allow General Z (has it caught on yet?) to have any chinks in its armor. Therefore, we used a few other detailing products in addition to the Graphene Nano Spray Coating.

“We added 303 Protectant to the tires to add some UV protection,” Goodson explains. “We also gave a quick once over to the dash and seats using 303 Interior Cleaner, 303 Leather Cleaner, and 303 Leather Conditioner.”

MODERNIZING THE MEDIA DECK

A daily driver car is no fun without a stereo deck equipped with all the bells and whistles. In our case, we decided to improve upon the original stereo from 2003 by saying “YES” to a modern one from JVC with Bluetooth connectivity.

Before installing the new unit, Galuska disconnected the car battery as a simple best practice that everyone should follow.

There isn’t much risk involved when putting in a new head unit, like in our case. But the last thing we want to do is damage any component of the vehicle after putting so much effort into it.

Once we got it installed, we turned the volume up because only one item remained on our build list.

SPOILER ALERT

Our final task on the last day we spent in the garage came in the form of installing a spoiler. Suffice to say it’s not much of a spoiler alert because it’s the concluding act of our Revving Up build. But the copywriter we pay can’t help but call attention to double entendres, so we hope you enjoy the play on words anyway.

“While most of the other modifications on the car were for performance purposes, we decided to go with a simple spoiler for the rear of the car that is just there as a cosmetic modification,” says Galuska.

And just like that, we closed the book on General Z’s (it’s official that this is the nickname, right?) comprehensive yet attainable build. We hope you use this video series to inspire a similar project because it instills a sense of pride you must experience for yourself.

WHAT COMES NEXT

Now that the build is complete, nothing but big plans await the 2003 Nissan 350Z. That’s why we lowered it down from the race ramps we used to prop it up and began dreaming of what comes next.

“It’s awesome to finally see the car back down on the ground and all our new parts installed,” Galuska said. “We can’t wait to take it for its first ride!”

That’s precisely what is going to happen next week in Revving Up Episode 7. Be sure to join us as we put the pedal to the metal and test the limits of what this baby can do. Hopefully, it performs well otherwise, our faces will be red with embarrassment to match the paint job.

See you next week at the race track!

For more on this car build or the latest STA-BIL® and 303® news, make sure to follow both on Instagram (@303CarCare & @stabilbrand) and Facebook. You can also subscribe to their respective YouTube channels.

The post REVVING UP™ – FINISHING TOUCHES appeared first on Gold Eagle.

After performing much of the base and framework, the time has finally come to give the 350Z some cosmetic changes in Revving Up Episode 5.

Get a step-by-step look at how Galuska and Goodson make the coupe more aerodynamic by installing a front splitter, side splitters, and new hood vents.

THE STORY SO FAR

We are four chapters into our re-build of a 2003 Nissan 350Z, and boy, have we made some serious progress. In fact, we completed all of the mechanical modifications we planned for the car in Episode 4, allowing us to start it up for the first time since we began this series!

Hearing that engine come to life was a gratifying reminder of the hours we’ve put into the ride. After all, we thoroughly cleaned and prepped the 350Z in our pilot episode. We also installed several new pieces in the chapters that followed, including:

• Cold air intake
• Plenum spacer
• Fully adjustable suspension
• Brakes
• Rotors
• Wheels
• Exhaust
• Chassis bracing

Now, we are turning our attention to making some profound cosmetic changes on the coupe by installing a new front splitter, side splitters, and hood vents.

All of these design choices were ours and ours alone because that’s what this series is all about. We take pride in the process of building a custom ride, doing it your way, and accomplishing it with a modest budget. Read on to learn how you can do the same, and don’t forget to check out the episodes in order to see how we got here.

WHEN “COOL” SERVES A DUAL PURPOSE

If you ever came across a stylish sports car that’s dressed with fashionable hood vents, they serve a purpose beyond looking sleek. In a much more literal sense, these vents allow air to flow more freely so hot temperatures don’t get a chance to overwhelm the equipment under the bonnet.

In STA-BIL Brand Manager Bob Galuska’s own words:

“The hood vents have a dual purpose. They look cool while also providing some additional cooling when we are pushing the car to its limits. Any time you can keep underhood temps a bit cooler is a good thing. But they also look pretty rad as well.”

Take a look at the following photo to see what the 350Z looks like before we get started with the hood vent installation.

All of that red real estate looks pretty, but we know that we can make it look even more attractive with our hood vent plans. That’s why we used a rotary tool, cutting wheel, rivet gun, drill, 1/8 drill bit, and tape to complete the job.

We are on chapter five of the series, so we have become intimately familiar with the phrase, “The best-laid plans of mice and men often go awry.” Working on a project like this lends itself to unforeseen issues, but there is always a workaround, making the final product even more rewarding.

This week we were troubled by the painter’s tape we used to outline the holes we need to cut for our hood vents. Painter’s tape of all things!

“The painter’s tape we were using to hold the stencils in place didn’t stick well to the hood—so thankfully we were being filmed and used some production Gaffer’s tape, which held up a lot better,” said 303 Brand Manager DJ Goodson.

We also saved some time by cutting our holes directly into the hood without taking it off first. Some people might see a need to take that extra step, but you can go for it if you pay close attention to your outlines. Do that, and you can go straight for it. Full send.

“We didn’t take off the hood to cut the holes for the vents because it wasn’t necessary, and it saves time,” explains Goodson. “You just have to know where you’re cutting, which makes the prep work a lot more important.”

Drilling and cutting made things a little dusty, but look at how much style these hood vents add to the 350Z.

THE FAST AIR SPLITTER

Once we had the hood vents installed, we shifted our attention to the front splitter. Including this on the car was another choice to help in the coupe’s cosmetic appeal while simultaneously improving its performance.

“The front splitter literally does what it’s called- splitting the air coming at the front of the car,” says Galuska. “This will give the car a bit more downforce to help with handling at higher speeds.”

We elected to go with a chassis-mounted splitter instead of a bolt-on style that you can easily find online. Our front splitter needs to be highly functional, so we can maximize the performance of the Z. This is critical because we have BIG plans for it in the coming weeks.

So how can you install a front splitter if you were so inclined? We used a 14 mm wrench, 14 mm socket, 10 mm socket, 10 mm wrench, drill, and a 4 mm Allen wrench to get it done. These tools are all you will need to secure it, even if you have to install it behind a reservoir as we did.

“We were able to reuse the bolt hole for the windshield washer reservoir for one of the support braces for the front splitter,” Galuska explains. “This is common when you’re putting on an aftermarket part. It’s better to use an existing hole if you can as opposed to drilling a new one.”

After installing the front splitter, we felt an urge to test out the fit with the front bumper. We brought it over because we were curious to see if it would be possible to leave it on for the rest of the re-build.

After lining up the bumper, it looked a little too close for comfort. Galuska explains:

“It was real close right away, so we were able to install the splitter and keep the bumper aside until we install our new headlights. That should be the last step for this front end we’ve totally revamped.”

SPLITTING OUR SIDES

Slapping on the side splitters was the last item on today’s to-do list. Unlike the hood vents and front splitter, we are choosing to include these purely for aesthetics. In plain English, the side splitters themselves serve no purpose beyond looking completely badass and matching what we installed on the front.

“As we said at the beginning of this series, the car is not a full-blown race build but a combo between some fun basic track mods and making the car look cool,” says Goodson. “We felt the side splitters give it a bit more of an aggressive look, so that’s why we chose these.”

Installing the side splitters required us to get down on the ground, which can be challenging the older you get. The way we see it, however, working on cars keeps us young.

We used a race ramp to elevate the 350Z last week, and we’re propping the car up even higher with the help of a jack stand this time around. This type of tool is important to keep handy if you want to give yourself enough space to drill holes with precision.

We did our due diligence to ensure the side splitters were securely fastened in place. But since we worked on the front and side today, it still begs the question of which splitter is the most stable (or STA-BIL) between the two.

“The front splitter is solid and is likely to withstand pretty much anything,” Goodson answers. “The side splitters should be fine because of how secure they are, but if you’re handicapping which one is more durable—it would be the front.”

Once we completed the installation of the side splitters, it looked like the photo below, which was good enough for us to call it quits for the day.

WHAT COMES NEXT

Now that our 350Z has received significant mechanical and cosmetic changes, we are nearing the finish line of this incredibly fun project.

Catch us next week to see us put the finishing touches on the ride. It will be your last chance to see us work in the garage as we install a new radio and give the car a thorough detailing with 303 products.

This detailing work will include a cleaning, polishing, and the addition of a vinyl wrap. All you have to do is look at this mess to understand why we plan to spend a significant amount of our time getting it spotless to present the finished product.

For more on this car build or the latest STA-BIL® and 303® news, make sure to follow both on Instagram (@303CarCare & @stabilbrand) and Facebook. You can also subscribe to their respective YouTube channels.

The post REVVING UP™ – AERO ADDITIONS appeared first on Gold Eagle.

The work continues! After making some serious headway with a new suspension system for the 350Z, Galuska and Goodson are back at it to complete this part of the re-build in Revving Up Episode 4.

See how the pair works together to install new brakes and slotted rotors, sway bars, chassis bracing, and the exhaust. With this much progress, it’s like night and day compared to when we first started.

WOAH, WE’RE HALFWAY THERE

We’re really starting to hit our stride as Bob Galuska of STA-BIL and 303’s DJ Goodson lead the way in our re-build of a 2003 Nissan 350Z. The brand managers installed a set of coilovers, traction bars, and front adjustable upper control arms last week. Now, they’re here to close the loop on the suspension work before moving on to the brakes, wheels, and chassis.

Our entire crew has been having a blast working on this car each week by filming what we love to do and showing you how easy it can be. It’s incredible to see how much progress we’ve made so far because we are about halfway done with the work we plan to accomplish. More importantly, we didn’t get this far by living on a prayer, but with an innate desire to improve, even if it means getting down on the ground.

While the enhancements we’ve made to this point are significant, there is still much more that needs to be done here in Episode 4 of Revving Up. Stick around so you can see what it takes to install new sway bars, chassis bracing, exhaust, brakes, and slotted rotors. We’ll also be putting a fresh coat of paint on our calipers to make them pop behind a new set of wheels.

We can talk at length about our plans, but this coupe isn’t going to make these improvements on its own. So come follow along as we highlight everything Galuska and Goodson accomplish this week, including details that can help you perform similar work in your garage or driveway. After all, taking on a project like this is fun, cost-effective, and more achievable than you might think.

SWAY IT AIN’T SO

Sway bars, also known as anti-roll bars, are essential for keeping your car firmly planted to the ground. Connecting both wheels gives you more control, which is critical if you plan to drive at higher speeds. We want to have fun with this coupe, so swapping the old sway bars for a new set is the first thing we did.

“If you are turning into a corner and you feel like the car is floating almost like a boat, this may be a good mod for you,” says Galuska. “Having increased rates for both the front and rear is going to again stiffen up our suspension and reduce body roll giving your ride a more planted feel when playing on some valley road S turns or on the track.”

In order to install the new ST suspension sway bars, Galuska and Goodson used a 16 mm socket and ratchet to tighten it up. Then, they headed underneath the car to fasten the pieces in place. It always helps to have an extra set of hands (and light!) when getting down on the ground. So, keep that pro tip in mind if you want to perform similar work independently.

When installing the sway bars, line up the arms the same way it is reflected in the image above. Once you have the correct angle, you will connect and tighten it to make sure it is as secure as possible.

DON’T GO BRAKING MY CAR

The most exciting part of working on a project car like a Nissan 350Z is considering the end result. Having the final product in mind is a natural motivator, and at this point, we are envisioning a Ricky Bobby situation, the car will need high-performing brakes so we can stop… When we have to.

“We chose to go with a set of R1 slotted rotors and their ceramic pads,” Galuska explains. “The slotted rotors will help dissipate some heat as well as remove debris from the pads. The ceramic pads we choose are a good all-around pad for daily performance as well as having some fun on the track.”

Getting our brakes in working order required us to first compress the piston calipers.

“The tool we used to push back in the piston on the caliper is called a piston compressor,” Galuska says. “It allows the caliper to be installed easily and fit over the brake pads to push the piston completely in.”

Since we want this car to exude personality, we dressed up the calipers in gold paint after pushing them into place.

“This is obviously 100% cosmetic, but we wanted to show you how easy it was to customize your ride a little bit more and how affordable it can be,” says Goodson. “The paint we used only cost about $25, and you saw how easy it was to apply.”

You are free to choose whatever color you like best, but we thought gold would appear luminous against the red paint and silver wheels of the 350Z. “Another reason is the factory Brembo brake option on these cars were gold as well, so it ties into Nissan’s original thoughts,” Galuska says.

IF IT’S UP, THEN IT’S UP

Until this point, we’ve been using jack stands to prop up the car. But since we plan to work on the new exhaust and chassis bracing parts, we decided to elevate it today using a race ramp.

“The reason for putting the car up on the race ramps was twofold,” explains Galuska. “It allows us to get the car down on all four wheels and tires to check the fitment with the new suspension. It also allows us more room to get under the car to install the exhaust and chassis bracing parts.”

We didn’t want to hold anything back, so we chose to install a Z1 single exit system for the exhaust.

“This should reduce some weight and maximize the exhaust flow allowing our exhaust to escape through the mandrel-bent tubing easily,” Goodson says. “Z1’s website states it as being LOUD in capital letters, so hopefully we can wake some neighbors up with this thing.”

If you’re ready to wake up the neighborhood, you can install this style of exhaust with a 14 mm socket, 16 mm socket, and a ratchet.

BECAUSE YOU’RE SO SMOOTH

Back in Episode 1, we had difficulty taking out the exhaust. The new install went much smoother this time around since we’re dealing with newer parts that are void of rust. Nonetheless, we still needed to finesse the muffler to make it fit correctly.

“When we were finishing up the exhaust install, the muffler was lightly touching the rear bumper,” Goodson explains. “This was an easy fix, as we just had to slightly bend the final exhaust hanger and reattach it.”

While installing the exhaust hangers, we used STA-BIL Rust Stopper to mitigate any corrosion. This product was a big help in keeping us rolling with the theme of making the day’s work feel silky and serene.

“This exhaust comes with a silencer inside of the muffler, so you can make the exhaust quieter or louder based on your preference,” Galuska explains. “So we used an Allen Wrench to remove the silencer because we prefer the car to be a bit louder.”

ON THE ROAD AGAIN?

We’ve come a long way to this point, and our 350Z is almost to the point where it is drivable. The key word here being “almost.”

Before we get there, we need to install the chassis bracing, which is the final mechanical piece we will be using on the build.

Also, we will have to take it to a suspension shop for a proper alignment before we can confidently declare road readiness. It’s so close we can almost taste it!

“The point of the chassis bracing is to reduce the flex by reinforcing the weak point of the factory unibody,” Galuska explains. “This makes the chassis more rigid, which helps with handling around corners.”

When installing the chassis bracing, we drilled into the unibody to create a larger hole for the bolts. We did this to make sure it was completely secure for optimal handling. This step was the last mechanical modification we needed in order to make the car drivable (milestones, baby). But we still have some cosmetic changes and finishing touches we want to incorporate in the next couple of chapters, so you’ll have to rejoin us as we prepare for one exciting conclusion.

WHAT COMES NEXT

If you read the entire blog to this point, we commend you for sticking around. We know it’s a go-go world, and we thank you for not sitting there in your chair (or block of wood) feeling bored.

Major bonus points if you caught every song title and lyrical reference we used in the subheadings (in order):

• “Livin’ On A Prayer” by Bon Jovi
• “Say It Ain’t So” by Weezer
• “Don’t Go Breaking My Heart” by Elton John featuring Kiki Dee
• “Up” by Cardi B
• “Smooth” by Santana featuring Rob Thomas
• “On The Road Again” by Willie Nelson

As we look ahead to Episode 5, we will be focusing on some serious cosmetic modifications. So if you live to customize, join us next week to learn how to stylize your car’s exterior without having to put a massive dent in your wallet. You will also get a chance to see us add:

• A front splitter
• Side splitter
• Hood vents

For more on this car build or the latest STA-BIL® and 303® news, make sure to follow both on Instagram (@303CarCare & @stabilbrand) and Facebook. You can also subscribe to their respective YouTube channels.

The post REVVING UP™ – BRAKES, WHEELS, & CHASSIS appeared first on Gold Eagle.

Maximizing performance requires a lot of attention to detail when it comes to the suspension. That’s why we place a considerable focus here in Revving Up Episode 3.  

Jump in to see Galuska and Goodson remove the existing suspension system of the 350Z to make room for new coilovers, traction bars, camber arms, and front adjustable upper control arms.

DIDN’T MEAN TO LEAVE YOU IN SUSPENSE 

Whether you are new to this series or have been patiently waiting since last week, you’ve come to the right place if you want to learn how fun and cost-effective it is to take on a project car. 

In our case, we designated a strict $25,000 “all-in” budget to build a 2003 Nissan 350Z from its original design into a combo daily driver and weekend track car.

STA-BIL’s Bob Galuska and 303 Brand Manager DJ Goodson spent the previous two episodes prepping the coupe and removing OEM parts, including the throttle body, upper intake plenum, lower intake plenum, and plenum gasket. While they were at it, the pair also replaced a leaky valve cover, coil packs, spark plugs, as well as installed a new larger throttle body and a plenum spacer. 

Now, our 350Z is finally ready to receive some suspension work, and that’s precisely what we will be covering here in episode 3 of Revving Up. 

This part of the car build is significant because an adequately tuned suspension is key to absorbing bumps and maximizing handling. Therefore, Galuska and Goodson will remove the existing suspension on the 350Z to install a set of coilovers, traction bars, camber arms, and adjustable front upper control arms.

SO MUCH TO DO, SO LITTLE TIME 

In addition to the new parts we plan to install, Galuska also made it a point to add chassis bracing and a fresh coat of paint on the brake calipers. With plenty of work to be done on the suspension, we found that it was best to hop to it to see how much we could accomplish. 

As Galuska puts it, “We have a lot to do today, so it’s time we stop talking and get to work.” Getting our hands dirty is what we’re good at it anyway.

Once we got going, the first thing we noticed was that the car still had several original parts, which is surprising considering that the coupe is a 2003 model. 

“Nothing has been removed or tampered with since the car was built,” says Galuska. “Which means bolts are rusty and difficult to take apart.” In a few cases, some bolts were either rounded or completely stripped, an unforeseen obstacle that will undoubtedly add more time to the build.

“We are currently slightly behind the timeline we liked to hit,” says Galuska. “We planned to be able to paint the calipers and get the brakes and rotors on… But because of all the problems we had with the bolts, some of that work is going to have to wait.”

In order to stick as close to the timeline as possible, Goodson stepped in to assist Galuska with the rusty bolts by using a jack handle. Combining the jack handle with a ratchet allows you to increase leverage to break those stubborn bolts loose.

“Then we used the jack itself to increase the upward pressure on a wrench to get that bolt going,” explains Goodson. “If you have these, consider using them for this as they can really save some time.” 

MORE BOLTS, MORE PROBLEMS 

Much to the misfortune of the perceptive Brand Managers, more bolt problems awaited Galuska and Goodson as they made their way to the rear of the 2003 Nissan 350Z.

“The factory strut has a threaded insert that’s tack-welded from the factory,” Goodson explains. “As we were loosening the bolt, that tack-weld broke loose… And our only option at that point was to cut the bolt so we can push it out the other side. So we ordered a replacement bolt to finish the job.”

Surprises like these are almost always a guarantee when working on a project car. As a general rule of thumb, consider older models will likely come with more unexpected discoveries. For example, 2003 doesn’t seem like it was too long ago, but we still found something we weren’t anticipating. 

“When we took off the brakes, we noticed that they were still the OEM brake pads from 2003,” says Galuska in a lighthearted tone. “You would have expected that a previous owner might have replaced them at least once, but here we are.”

While this part of the car build is all about the suspension, we know that we will want our car to stop eventually (pretty important, right?). That’s why we removed the strut, brake caliper, brake rotor, spring coil, camber arm, and traction arm to make room for what’s coming next. 

FLEXIBILITY IS YOUR FRIEND 

Once we said goodbye to the old traction arm and camber arm of the car, we were now ready to place some of our new parts. It was critical to allow a little extra room to ensure that we could adapt as needed during the new install.

“While we had the front shocks out of the way, this was the best time for us to install our new upper control arms,” says Goodson. “It is best that we have as much adjustability as possible to make sure our alignment stays in check. These control arms give us both caster and camber adjustability so that we can fine-tune everything in our front suspension.” 

To perform this work, we used the following essential tools: 

• 9/16 socket 
• Ratchet 
• Large adjustable wrench

Keeping the older parts of the vehicle close to us was crucial in ensuring that the new camber arms and traction arms would fit perfectly in place once installed. 

“It gave us a good starting point now that all the adjustable suspension parts are installed,” explains Galuska. “Once we start driving it, we’ll have to bring it into a professional shop to get the car aligned.”

While we are incredibly passionate and knowledgeable in what we do, we also have big plans to put the performance of our 350Z to the test. That’s why we will eventually take it in for a proper alignment before we show you what we have planned for this coupe.  

But we’ll have more on that later in the series. You’ll have to stick around to see. 

WITH GREAT COILS COMES GREAT STEERING CONTROL 

No, we didn’t commission Uncle Ben to share life advice with us the same way he did Peter Parker on his journey to becoming Spider-Man. We’ve been around cars long enough to know that having well-structured coilovers are key to improving vehicle performance.

“The front received a true style coilover, while the rear will still have adjustability, but maintain the factory spring perch keeping a separate shock and coil,” Galuska explains. “These coilovers are going to provide us with full control over our ride height as well as getting our rebound and compression set up the way we want it.”  

The overall goal of this work is to stiffen up the ride to get better inputs for steering response.

We were able to complete this with only a select few tools, including: 

• 17 mm socket 
• 17 mm wrench 
• Rubber mallet 
• Ratchet 

• Extensions 
• 12 mm socket 

To achieve proper balance, we took this same philosophy to the back of the car after successfully installing the coilovers in the front. We made this possible by purchasing an adjustable set of rear traction arms and camber arms, so the alignment in the rear was dialed in. 

Camber arms make it possible to adjust the suspension, and they are crucial to ensure that the tires have the proper amount of negative or positive camber we desire.

“If the top of the tire is leaning inward, you have negative camber, but if the top of the tire is leaning outward, you have positive camber,” Galuska explains. “The traction arms allow us to adjust the rear end to eliminate bump steer and let us get the ultimate traction put down to the ground.”

YOU HAVE TO KNOW WHEN TO CALL IT 

One theme that continues to surface with each phase of the car build is the number of challenges and obstacles we didn’t account for. But that’s all part of the fun, isn’t it? Galuska certainly thinks so. 

“We are currently slightly behind the timeline we liked to hit,” he admits. “We planned to be able to paint the calipers and get the brakes and rotors on… but because of all the problems we had with the bolts, some of that work is going to have to wait.”

While working on a project car like this is a lot of fun, it’s a lot of work that can quickly eat up a lot of your time. For this reason, it’s important to know when to call it a day, and having a like-minded friend by your side is the best way to keep that timetable in check. 

“As we talked about in the first episode, there’s always something that comes up that makes the project take longer than expected. Today was no exception,” Goodson says with a smile on his face.  

“You think it might take four hours, but it’s probably going to take eight,” Galuska adds.

WHAT COMES NEXT 

We hope for an easier time next week as we look ahead to episode 4 of Revving Up. Join us there to see us finish some of the items we had on today’s “to do” list like: 

• Installing our new brakes and rotors 
• Painting the calipers 
• Installing our new chassis bracing

For more on this car build or the latest STA-BIL® and 303® news, make sure to follow both on Instagram (@303CarCare & @stabilbrand) and Facebook. You can also subscribe to their respective YouTube channels.

The post REVVING UP™ – SUSPENSION WORK appeared first on Gold Eagle.

The 350Z re-build gains plenty of momentum in Revving Up Episode 2. Galuska and Goodson head under the hood to install a new cold air intake, a larger throttle body, and a plenum spacer.  

While working under the hood, the pair also performs routine maintenance by fixing a leaky valve cover and replacing the spark plugs and coil packs.

THE FUN REALLY BEGINS

Our build of a 2003 Nissan 350Z gets going this week as we begin to install some of the new parts we ordered. We purchased all the components we needed (which turned out to be a lengthy list) while sticking to our $25,000 total budget.

We set that budget to show how affordable it can be to build a combination daily driver/weekend track car for the everyday enthusiast who may not have the resources to own multiple vehicles. We love to do this stuff, and if anyone gets inspired along the way, we’ll take it!

This week STA-BIL® Brand Manager Bob Galuska and 303® Brand Manager DJ Goodson head under the hood to install a new cold air intake, throttle body, and a plenum spacer. They will also perform some routine maintenance by fixing a leaky valve cover and replacing both the spark plugs and coil packs.

CLEARING THE WAY 

The first step was to make room for the new parts, so we removed the upper and lower intake plenums. Since the throttle body is connected to the upper intake, we were able to remove all the parts in this initial step.

Galuska and Goodson removed the parts and then used STA-BIL® Carb/Choke & Parts Cleaner to cleanse the plenums since they were already out and easy to access.

“It’s a great parts cleaner,” Galuska says. “We were able to remove all the carbon build-up inside of the intake plenum while we had it apart.”

Once the intake plenums were off, they added a cardboard card over the lower intake. Goodson wanted to make sure that “nothing fell internally into the engine requiring us to rip further into the motor.” Saving time down the line is always a good idea, especially when working on a project like this.

Replacing the valve cover was necessary to fix a problem that occurs a lot with Nissan’s DE series engines. “These Z cars, they are notorious for having misfires due to faulty valve cover gaskets,” Galuska says. After purchasing the car, we noticed a slight misfire and traced the issue back to oil getting into the spark plug holes due to bad valve cover gaskets.

“In some vehicles, the valve cover has separate gaskets around the spark plug holes that are easily replaceable, but of course, Nissan didn’t want this to be easy on us.” He continues with a hint of annoyance, “On these cars, the spark plug gaskets are all one piece on the valve cover, meaning if one starts leaking, you have to replace the entire thing.”

 Installing the new valve cover required a basic socket set and a ratchet. Goodson says they also needed some RTV sealant to prevent any unwanted leaks.

They put the sealant on both the valve cover itself and at the point where it attaches. Galuska added that the decision was a precautionary measure to ensure we don’t get surprised by an oil leak once we try restarting the car for the first time. After all, that would make for quite an anticlimactic ending to this passion project.

EVERY DETAIL MATTERS 

After replacing the valve cover, the pair also replaced the spark plugs and coil packs to ensure they know that everything is good to go once the car gets put back together.

When removing or installing spark plugs, a simple tool can make the job a lot easier, especially when dealing with a car with an engine layout like the 350Z. Goodson says, “Spark plug sockets are a bit different because they contain a rubber grommet on the inside, allowing you to pull the spark plug out of the engine without having to reach in with a magnet.”

With a replacement valve cover in place, along with the new coil packs and spark plugs, Goodson and Galuska were now free to start putting back the intake plenum, including a new plenum spacer.

“The plenum spacer is going to let the car breath a bit easier,” Goodson explains. “It helps increase airflow to the front cylinders, which is robbed from the factory design and allows us to get more top–end power and a little mid-range torque bump. The best part is it will still allow us to keep our factory strut tower brace.”

Galuska said they used a 10mm socket, 14mm socket, a 3/8 ratchet, and extensions for the install.

ACHIEVING BALANCE

Once the plenum spacer and its matching gasket were placed, it was time to reattach the upper intake plenum. Galuska recommends that whenever you’re installing anything that uses bolts (cars or otherwise), it’s best practice to install in a crisscross pattern to ensure the pressure is even on all sides.

Locating the re-installed upper intake plenum is crucial because that’s where you need to attach the new larger throttle body. “This throttle body is the link between our new plenum spacer and our new cold air intake we will be putting on,” Galuska explains.

“The air intake is initially where the air starts flowing into the engine,” Galuska continues. “It then passes through the throttle body.”

Since the throttle body we are using is 5mm larger than stock, it will allow for more airflow into the cylinders, especially since we have already made more room for our plenum spacer. In return, this should give us a more significant throttle response and a slight increase in power.

Goodson says the only tools needed for this step are a set of Allen keys, but they did put some RTV sealant on the spacer between the throttle body and the upper intake plenum to hold it in place during install.

KEEPING IT COOL

With the throttle body in place, the new cold air intake was taken out of its box and ready for installation. “We started the intake install at the top of the throttle body and worked our way down,” Galuska explains. “That way, everything lined up and fit the way it was supposed to.”

Don’t you love it when every piece of the puzzle effortlessly comes together? We sure do.

It’s important to keep in mind that the cold air intake is not a simple replacement part. It’s a whole new system compared to the stock ram air intake.

“Adding this cold air intake is going to do just that. It allows the engine to suck in cooler air from outside the engine bay,” Goodson says. “The mandrel–bent tubing and open filter allows the air to flow smoothly into the new throttle body and then down into our intake plenum.” 

Performing this step creates cleaner combustion because cooler air is more efficient than hot air, and the old intake was only pulling in the latter since it was located in the engine bay near the heat of the motor.

Performing this step requires an 8mm socket, 14mm socket, a ratchet, screwdrivers, and some Allen keys.

Goodson also pointed out that 303® Protectant helps get the connections in place. “Just like the last episode, 303® Protectant came in the clutch,” he said. “Helping us install the silicone connectors on the cold air intake, it added some extra lubrication so we could move things easier when it came together.”

It doesn’t look like much, but these additions highlighted below will give the 350Z some increased performance.

To recap: we cleaned the existing intake plenums, changed a leaky valve cover, swapped the spark plugs and coil packs, added a plenum spacer, a larger throttle body, and installed a new cold air intake.

As the build starts to progress, Goodson points out something everyone taking on a car project should remember: 

One thing to keep in mind when you’re doing any type of car build is to do it the way that you want it. I’m sure there’s going to be a ton of comments below talking about, ‘We should’ve added this, or we should’ve added that.’ Everything we put on there had a purpose for our intents of the build. So, make sure that you’re doing your research and looking at what you want to put on there. Everything has a purpose for a car build, so make it your own.”

WHAT COMES NEXT

In episode three, we’re going to keep doing just that (making it our own) by tackling the suspension: 

• Front Upper Control Arms 
• Traction Arms 
• Camber Arms 
• A set of coilovers

For more on this car build or the latest STA-BIL® and 303® news, make sure to follow both on Instagram (@303CarCare & @stabilbrand) and Facebook. You can also subscribe to their respective YouTube channels.

The post REVVING UP™ – ENGINE BOLT-ON MODIFICATIONS appeared first on Gold Eagle.

The journey begins. Brand Managers Bob Galuska of STA-BIL® and 303®’s DJ Goodson spend a full day cleaning and prepping a 2003 Nissan 350Z to set up a smooth re-build.

Dive into Revving Up Episode 1 to see how the pair properly cleans the exterior and undercarriage to remove loose dirt and grime before making room for new parts that will be used to modify the coupe.

BACKGROUND

Getting our hands dirty is in our DNA at STA-BIL® and 303®. So is taking on a project car.

In 2018 we purchased a 1958 Chevrolet Apache pickup for STA-BIL’s® 60^th Anniversary. After touring the country with it for a couple of years, we auctioned it off at Mecum Indianapolis in July of 2020 for $62,000, with all proceeds going directly to Curing Kids Cancer.

It was a fun journey with a lot of real money going to a great cause, but it left us with a dual-sided problem. We had nothing new to work on, nor did we have anything to take to the parking lot so we could perform burnouts to our heart’s content.

That’s now changed in 2021.

MEET THE MODEL

We set out on a mission to modify a 2003 Nissan 350Z with one goal in mind: to show anyone that loves cars they can take on affordable projects at home and turn them into something truly their own.

To demonstrate, we set ourselves a $25,000 budget to turn the 350Z into a fun daily driver/weekend track car. That includes the car purchase, insurance, and all the parts.

With basic tools, a jack, and some jack stands, we’re going to show you how to build an enjoyable car in your driveway or garage.

Over SEVEN Episodes, we’re going to be tackling:

• Bolt-on Engine Modifications
• A Fully Adjustable Suspension
• New Brakes, Rotors, & Wheels
• Chassis Bracing
• Front and Side Aero
• A New Radio
• Minor cosmetic changes

In the end, we’re going to be using the 303® Automotive line of premium detailing products to make our 350Z shine at car meets and track days with our partners at #Gridlife.

GALUSKA & GOODSON, LICENSED GEARHEADS

So, where do we begin?

Let’s start with who’s doing the work.  STA-BIL® Brand Manager Bob Galuska and 303® Brand Manager DJ Goodson have plenty of experience taking on car projects and will be our guides throughout this process.

Galuska has been into anything with wheels since a young age. Growing up in rural Pennsylvania, his favorite pastime was wrenching in the garage with his grandfather and friends, an activity that has continued to this very day.

When he was younger, Goodson would help his dad clean his Camaro. Once he was old enough to get his license, he put that experience to good use as he was busy dirtying up the tires of his Jeep Wrangler. It’s safe to say that the car enthusiast has always had a soft spot for automobiles, which is why he takes an enormous amount of pride in keeping them maintained.

CLEAN CARS MAKE GOOD CANVASES

We ended up finding this 2003 350Z not far from STA-BIL and 303’s headquarters in Chicago. The car is untouched and all original with only 60,000 miles on it. The main reason this particular car stood out to us was that it was completely stock. Finding a completely stock car in this condition is no easy feat, so we were ecstatic to get our hands on a popular vehicle that we can modify on the cheap.

We agreed on a price and began the journey by giving the car a quick wash. Since we didn’t need to do much with the 350Z after making the purchase, bathing the coupe seemed like a logical first step before diving into the rebuild.

Next, we needed to get the car on jack stands. For instances like this, it’s a huge benefit to have a second person alongside you. Another set of eyes and ears helps ensure the vehicle remains level while propped up on the elevated platform. Luckily, it only took a few adjustments to get there.

“When jacking up the car, it’s best to have a partner for safety,” Galuska suggests. It helps to ensure that “the car is equally balanced on all four corners.” Goodson, playing the role of partner, says he is happy to get his hands dirty, adding, “it just makes the whole job easier having two people.”

“We took off the wheels this early because One: We’re going to be replacing them; Two: we have a lot of parts behind them that we’re going to be replacing on the suspension, the brakes, and so on,” says Galuska. He adds, “we really wanted to degrease everything under there to make sure everything was clean when we started to take it apart.”

Once the wheels were off, we also used a pressure washer extension piece to make cleaning the undercarriage a lot easier. We’re going to spend a lot of time under there, so removing excess dirt, grime, and rust is a great place to start. The extension we used was under $100 and can be found easily on Amazon. “It’s definitely a nice to have, but don’t need it,” Goodson says. “It just makes the whole process cleaner.”

PULLING OUT THE PIECES

“We took off the front bumper because we’re going to be installing an oil cooler behind it,” said Goodson.

“We’re also going to be installing new headlights,” Galuska continues. “The ones that were on the car were full of condensation, so it just easier to replace them than fix the old ones.”

When it comes to deciding whether to get rid of your headlights, Goodson says there is a way to salvage them. “If there starts to be oxidation on the outside, you can always polish and correct those to make them brighter.” But he concedes sometimes it’s time to bite the bullet and move on, “if you’re still having that blurry vision from your headlights, it’s time to replace them, and you’re going to need to take them out.”

PATIENCE IS A VIRTUE

After disassembling the front end, it was time to head under the hood and start the process of removing the air intake. To make that job a little easier, we used 303® Protectant.

“303® Protectant has a lot of interesting side uses,” Goodson says. “When we were taking the air intake off, we used it on the rubber hose to help loosen that up and let it swell a little bit and then help lubricate it to get the air intake off and make that job easier.”

Once the intake was out, we needed to head under the car to remove the old exhaust to make room for our new one. “There’s going to be a lot of rust and debris falling from the car when you’re under there,” Galuska said. He advises using safety glasses whenever heading under the car. “We knew we were going to be using a grinder and a Sawzall, so it was just a safety precaution.”

Ideally, we can remove the OEM bolts to get the parts out. STA-BIL® Rust Stopper can help in this type of situation. Galuska says Rust Stopper works well as a penetrant to “loosen things up.” He points to two specific areas when dealing with removing an old exhaust. “The rubber on the exhaust hangers gets dry over the years and makes it hard for things to come out of it, so [Rust Stopper] lubes them up a little bit. And then the bolts, it’s a good penetrate to loosen them up.”

Despite the best plans, sometimes working on a car doesn’t go the way you anticipated. According to Galuska, some bolts were so rusted that it was “a time saver to cut the exhaust.” Since the tag team didn’t plan on reusing anything under that part of the car, it made more sense to ditch it altogether.

“When you’re doing projects on cars, something that always tends to occur is it takes a lot longer than you would typically think it would take,” Goodson explains with some levity. “You’re going into it thinking it’s going to take four hours… It’s going to take eight hours. You can kind of bet on that.”

“I expected it to be a little bit of trouble,” Galuska adds. “It was just the way it was rusted in there. It ended up being trickier than we imagined.”

Goodson made sure to reiterate how much more fun these projects can be when you have a partner. “It’s great to have someone with you to do the build.” He adds, “You can have fun with them, enjoy the suffering underneath the car. Then at the end of the day, look back at the suffering and enjoy it.”

WHAT COMES NEXT

Misery be damned, we removed the tires and wheels, front bumper, air intake, and the old exhaust after one day. All that to make room to start installing some of our new parts. In Episode Two, we’re going to add some basic bolt-on engine mods:

• Plenum Spacer
• Cold Air Intakes
• Throttle Body

We’re also going to change out a leaky valve cover and perform routine maintenance by putting in new spark plugs and coil packs.

For more on this car build or the latest STA-BIL® and 303® news, make sure to follow both on Instagram (@303CarCare & @stabilbrand) and Facebook. You can also subscribe to their respective YouTube channels.

The post REVVING UP™ – LAYING THE GROUNDWORK appeared first on Gold Eagle.